Tailor Made
What I’ve learned from spending a lot of time at the tailor
The only financial tip you will ever learn from me is that tailoring your clothing is an investment with exponential gains, both in the short and long term.
Ever feel like you have a closet full of clothing you actually do like but struggle to get dressed? I can almost guarantee it’s because things aren’t fitting properly. So my advice when bringing something new into your wardrobe is to go for the piece you love, get it tailored and wear it every single week. You’ll get satisfaction every time you put it on and you won’t find yourself trying to fill a void with another similar item.
That said, I know going to a tailor for the first time can feel intimidating, but it really doesn’t have to be, so here are some of my tips.
Trial Before Trust— When we moved from Seattle, I was very sad to leave my alteration specialist at the flagship Nordstrom (FYI they take non-Nordstrom items) and slightly worried about how I’d fill that gap in San Francisco. I’ve since declared my love for my tailor here more times than I can count and spend far too much time in her studio. She’s wonderful and I’ve learned so much from her. She also cares enough to understand my preferences and my eye. The tip here is to find someone you feel comfortable with, which does, ironically, require a bit of trial and error. Read reviews, go with a place that feels promising, and start with something low-stakes. Don’t bring in a vintage one-of-one piece until the trust is there.
Come Prepared— If I’m taking in a pair of pants, I’ll bring a couple of shoes I’d realistically wear with them to make sure the length works across the board. This is how I feel confident on making any changes to length… it needs to work with more than just one shoe. (Many tailors will have shoes available for this reason but it’s much better to use your own.) If you’re adjusting a coat, think about what you’ll layer underneath and either wear that outfit in or bring it along so you’re seeing the full picture. Same thing goes for undergarments!
Be Specific— A good tailor will keep you honest… whether that means telling you something isn’t worth the cost or just isn’t realistic. I’ve absolutely shown up with tags still on and let Mina be the one to tell me it’s a return, lol. Even if you don’t have the technical language, go in knowing how you want something to feel (a little tighter here, cleaner through here, less break, etc.) and work from there. The tailor will translate what’s feasible but it’s on you to have a clear point of view. Reference photos are always helpful and I often pull product images/screenshots directly from websites for visuals on the intended fit.
It’s Not Just Pants— I feel like people tend to write off alterations for anything that isn’t pants, but it’s worth reconsidering. If there’s a piece you love but never reach for, bring it in. I had this sweatshirt sitting in my closet for over a year after wearing it once because it felt awkwardly bulky and boxy. I brought it in to see what could be done and it’s now a piece that I love to wear thanks to a few small changes. I’ve even had pajamas altered at this point, which feels mildly incriminating, but proves my point.
Time/Patience— I get it if this is the last appointment you want to spend real time on, but it’s not one to cram into a small window between other things. Don’t go in rushed and give yourself the space to actually pay attention. Sit down, stand up, walk around a bit, see how everything feels before handing over your precious cargo. Not all alterations can be reversed and sometimes more than one round of revisions will be needed. And the same idea applies for your tailor’s timeline… this isn’t a rush job (I actually avoid expediting at all costs), so plan ahead.
Costs— On that note, this will vary depending on where you go, but most line-item alterations tend to fall somewhere in the $20–80 range, which can add up quickly if you’re doing a few things at once. It’s worth thinking of this as part of the total cost of the piece. If you’re already spending $800 on a pair of jeans, putting another $100–200 into getting the fit exactly right makes sense. If it’s a $100 pair of Levi’s, maybe keep yourself closer to $20–40 in alterations (for a simple hem this is usually more than enough).
I recently did a quick Q&A on Instagram to gauge curiosity around tailoring, and while a lot of the questions circled back to the basics above, a few were more specific especially around denim and my size. It’s a bit tricky to share exact alterations since it’s so personal, but generally, I’m almost always hemming my pants (I’m 5’4”) and taking in the waist, or removing extra bulk in the seat and/or crotch.
A few people also asked if I size up on purpose— I don’t, but this can be a great strategy depending on the look you’re after. If you want that “pinched” waist with a more relaxed leg, sizing up and tailoring the waist back in is a great move. It really comes down to having a clear vision for how you want something to fit, and then making the piece work for you…not the other way around. I work with clients on this often, so if it’s something you’re trying to nail, feel free to reach out.
I am not an expert, but here are a few more technical notes: always, always ask to keep the original hem (you’ll hear this called a “euro hem”). If you’re trying to remove some bulk through the thigh without changing the overall shape or shifting the pockets, it can be taken in along the seams on both sides or adding (subtle) back pleats. For petites, a few other helpful things to know: you can ask for the rise to be shortened slightly so the proportions sit better overall, hems can be adjusted with little to no break to help elongate the leg, and tapering from the knee down can clean up the line without making things feel tight. Cropping intentionally (rather than just “shortening”) also makes a big difference, especially with straight or wider legs. And if proportions feel off at the top, even something like repositioning a waistband or belt loops can improve the fit.
Hope this helps!
x HB
This ! Literally just had pants I knew I’d adore when tailored, altered and I’m so excited to wear!